Scottish Highlands: Castles, Lochs, and the Open Road

Misty glens, ancient castles and quiet roads—Scotland's Highlands are all about slow travel and embracing every bit of the weather.

The Romance of the North

I’ve driven through here a few times, and there’s something about the space that hits you—miles of road with no other cars, just you and the sound of the wind. The Highlands aren’t just pretty scenery, though they’re definitely that: lochs glinting like mirrors, mountains wrapped in mist, heather moors stretching as far as you can see.

The weather’s totally part of the fun, dinnae fash yersel if it rains one minute and shines the next—it’s what keeps the hills so bonnie and green. You’ll get rain, sun, rainbows, and rain again, all in an hour, and that’s just part of the charm.

Best Time: Late Spring to Early Autumn

May, June and September are your best bets. The days are long—come June, it barely gets dark until 11 p.m.—the midges (those tiny biting bugs) aren’t too bad, and you won’t be fighting crowds everywhere. July and August are warmer, but they’re busier, and the midges get brutal.

Winter’s different—snow covers the mountains, days are short, but if you want moody, dramatic views with almost no tourists, it’s got its own magic. Just pack extra layers, trust me.

The Isle of Skye: The Crowd-Pleaser for a Reason

Skye gets all the hype, and yeah, it’s crowded sometimes. But once you see the Old Man of Storr, the Quiraing, or the Fairy Pools, you’ll get why—those landscapes look like they’re from another planet.

Skip the worst crowds by going early or late in the day, and hike a little past the first viewpoint. The Cuillin mountains are for serious hikers—if you’re not experienced, get a guide. And don’t miss the seafood: the Oyster Shed near Carbost is a no-fuss little place, and their fresh langoustines? Total game-changer.

Glencoe and the West Highlands

If Skye feels like a pilgrimage, Glencoe is the Highlands packed into one valley. It’s steeped in history—the 1692 massacre lingers in the air—and has some of the best walks around. The Lost Valley hike is moderate, easy enough for most, and takes you to a hidden cove that feels like a secret.

Further north, the North Coast 500 is a popular road trip, but you don’t have to do the whole 516 miles to love it. Torridon and Assynt have just as dramatic views, with way fewer caravans clogging the roads.

Castles and Lochs

You can’t visit the Highlands without checking out a castle—they’re everywhere, and each has its own story. Eilean Donan’s the most photographed one, sitting on a tiny island where three lochs meet. It’s been restored, so it’s a bit polished, but the view? Absolutely unbeatable.

For something more atmospheric, head to Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness—you can even play the game of looking for Nessie while you’re there. And if you love dark history, Cawdor Castle (linked to Macbeth) is fascinating—you’ll feel like you’re stepping into a story.

Practical Tips for Driving and Midges

Renting a car is non-negotiable. Most roads are single-track with passing places—pull left to let others go by, and wave to say thanks. It’s polite, and keeps things moving. Fuel stations are sparse up north, so fill up whenever you get the chance.

Midges are tiny, biting bugs that pop up in still, damp weather—usually dawn or dusk. Grab a midge net and some repellent (Smidge is the local go-to) and you’ll be fine. They’re more annoying than harmful, I promise.

What to Wear and Pack

Layers, a waterproof jacket, and sturdy shoes—even if you’re not hiking, the ground’s almost always wet. And bring a flexible attitude. Plans change here, thanks to the weather, and that’s okay.

Some of my best memories here are just pulling over at a random viewpoint, making a flask of tea, and watching the light dance on the lochs. That’s the real Highlands, right?