Hoi An, Vietnam: Lanterns, Tailors, and Riverside Charm

Hoi An, a laid-back UNESCO ancient town in Vietnam, is loved for its lantern nights, custom tailoring, and delicious local food.

A Town That Glows After Dark

Hoi An lives up to all the hype—but only if you go about it right. Tucked along Vietnam’s central coast, it was a busy trading port from the 15th to 19th centuries, and you can still see hints of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and European styles in its buildings.

It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, but not the stuffy museum kind. Locals live and work here, and every evening, they flip on the lanterns. Days are busy with tailors, cafés, and tourists, but by 6 p.m., the town shifts. Lanterns light up, the river shimmers with a hundred colors, and kids float candle-lit paper flowers on the water, hoping for good luck.

When to Go: February to April for the Best Weather

February to April is your best bet—skies are clear, temperatures hover around 25 degrees Celsius, and it’s not too humid. It’s perfect for wandering the old town or hanging by the river.

May to August gets hotter and stickier, but it’s still manageable if you don’t mind a little sweat. September to January is rainy season; floods pop up often, and some streets get blocked. If you go then, pack sandals you don’t mind getting wet—even flooded, Hoi An has a quiet beauty.

The Old Town: Walking Through Centuries

The old town is car-free and small, so walking is the way to go. You’ll need a ticket (sold at booths) for some historic spots—one ticket gets you into five attractions.

Don’t skip the Japanese Covered Bridge—it’s Hoi An’s symbol. It’s tiny and always crowded, but you can’t miss it. Tan Ky House, an 18th-century merchant’s home with mixed architectural styles, is worth a stop too, as is Fujian Assembly Hall, a colorful Chinese temple with intricate carvings.

Tailors: Getting Something Made Just for You

Hoi An is all about custom tailoring—you can get a suit, dress, or coat done in a day or two. Here’s the thing: know what you want, and bring photos or an old garment to show the tailor.

Places like Bebe Tailor or Yaly are popular for good reason—they’re consistent with details and fast with turnarounds—but smaller shops can do great work too. Be realistic with timing: complex pieces need at least 24 hours and one fitting. And feel free to bargain politely—the first price isn’t set in stone.

The Lantern Festival and Night Market

The full moon lantern festival, on the 14th day of each lunar month, is something else. The old town shuts off electric lights and relies only on silk lanterns and candles—it’s stunning, but packed.

If you miss it, the night market across the bridge is lit up every evening. It’s lively, with stalls selling souvenirs and street food—perfect for grabbing a snack and soaking up the vibe.

Food: More Than Just Banh Mi

Hoi An’s food scene is no joke. The banh mi from Madam Khanh or Phuong is worth waiting for—crusty bread, savory fillings, and a little paté that ties it all together.

But don’t stop there. Try cao lau, a noodle dish you’ll only find here. The noodles are made with water from hidden ancient wells near the Cham Islands and ash from local wood, giving them a unique chewy bite. It comes with pork, greens, and crispy wonton strips. And white rose dumplings—delicate shrimp-filled parcels—are a local specialty you can’t pass up.